Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then a good small alien. Pull the .11b crux to a rest. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some .10 lieback underclinging left. Up a solid mantel, and walk up the ramp to the chains
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Mar 25, 2009 rating: 5.11a PG13
My first .11 flash on gear.
Fantastic route, technical and smeary crux in the first 20 feet with bomber finger locks in the pods, but the real crux is placing gear.
Crux section takes a medium sized nut and a blue Alien, then shoot for a jug at the good rest 20 feet up.
Second section is sustained .10+, sick liebacking and underclinging. You get an okay rest to place gear when the lieback turns to undercling. After that, forget the gear and shoot for the top before the pump clock runs out.
Being tall makes this route easier. At 6'4", I'd give this route .10+/11-
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA May 13, 2009
Ditto... this route is fantastic, and sustained. Climbing the crux clean doesn't mean you'll style the rest of the line, as the moves stay decidedly un-trivial till the "jug" holds after the undercling/layback.
Protect the opening moves with a nut and a small cam (I used a purple Metolius Master Cam; it worked splendidly). After that, punch it to a good ledge and get ready for the 10+ business.
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