This route starts up the arete just left of Hyperspace. thin crack + arete to begin. Clip first bolt, a couple more arete moves, then transfer onto face and continue up to bolted anchor.
First .10c crux is directly above first bolt. Second crux is right before the anchor.
Location
Upper west face of sugarloaf, just left of Hyperspace. Receives pm sun, and was sheltered from the wind somewhat.
Protection
small gear to protect opening moves. yellow alien + small nut. Then all bolts (8?)
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Mar 31, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Placed a .3 Camalot high in the crack from ground level, then gunned for the first bolt. Sustained moves from ground to just past the 1st bolt. Use the bomber arete/rail for left hand/foot.
Tricky mantle over the slopey rail up high.
I finished the route by making a big move out left and finishing up on the crack. I'm sure other options exist straight up on the face.
USE CAUTION WHEN PULLING YOUR ROPE AND LOWERING. There is a jug, shaped like a thick, pointed flake about 3/4 of the way up. Make sure that your rope is running over it and not under it. It will eat your rope.
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