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East Face
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Lurch 

5.8

   

FA: Jim Hicks, Larry Morris, 1971.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Views: 282 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 16, 2007


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Description 

Just right of "East Chimney", climb a left facing corner, then knobs (5.8) to a two bolt belay.
Climb face to the top.


Protection 

Pro to 2", slings for knobs.



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By 426
Mar 12, 2007

2nd pitch pretty runout, short third pitch unless you string it together.

I thought Lurch was classic.

By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 PG13

The two-bolt anchor for this route has chains and can be rapped with a 60 m rope (if the second pitch looks uninspiring...which it kinda does).

After topping out the roof, traverse slightly right, clip a (somewhat older) bolt down low, and finish 20' of face climbing to the anchors by going either just right or just left of the bolt (I went right). I found this section to be the crux mentally of the route as there is no pro to be had and a bad, bad fall awaits (i.e. free-fall onto the slab below). The knobs available are fairly good for hands and feet but not really that sling-able and seemed unlikely to stay roped during any real fall, so why bother. The runout here is essentially PG13 in distance on delicate climbing ground but R in consequences.

Anyhow, the leader should have a pretty cool head for this one!!!

Morticia looked to have far newer bolts placed in a much more well-protected manner; however, a 70 m is probably needed to rap from her anchors if you don't want to go to the top.

Lurch is a very nice route and a great mind-fuck at moments.