Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.
There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!
This starts in an alcove and the route is obvious. Take the Eastern Terrace to this alcove and go for it!
The book "Wizards of Rock" by Pat Ament (highly recommended for history buffs) attempts to clarify the first 5.13 and many other "firsts" in free climbing.
In regards to Phoenix being the first 5.13, apparently Jardine "did" the route in 77, but he never redpointed it. His idea of "working" a route (a term he apparently coined?) was to get to a point where he could do all the moves in 3 or 4 sections between hangs. Once he achieved that, he moved on. In the case of the Phoenix, he TR-ed it free, and he lead it with 3 hangs. Obviously this would be considered totally invalid today, but back in those days any hang-dogging in the valley was completely cheating, so this style wasn't thought of as any different then hang-dogging on the route for weeks and then ulimately redpointing -- it was all considired "invalid" by traditionalists.
Apparently John Long did some route at Taquiz called "Hangover" in 1976. Long gave it the grade 5.13, and apparently it has never been down-rated, so perhaps that was the first 5.13.
Also, prior to this Pete Cleveland (of Needles fame) TR-ed two routes at Devil's Lake that are now thought to have been 5.13.
Grand Illusion was probably the first route harder than 5.13 'minus'.
East Face
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