Bolee Gold begins at the end of the big ramp on the south face of Sugarloaf. From here, follow the line of bolts straight up the thin face towards the top anchors of 'Hookers Haven' (the 12a to the right). Bolee Gold doesn't use the anchors, but continues left towards the arete then up to the first set of anchors. The first pitch totals 7 bolts. The second pitch continues straight up past another 7 bolts to another hanging belay.
The two pitches can be done as one for a 150' non-stop sustained crimp-fest. This is what I base the 3 star rating on.
From here, continue directly upwards past some flakes, then onto easier slab that is runout, but bolt-protected 5.8.
Protection
Pro to 3 inches plus a minimum of seven quickdraws. You can easily rappell down the face with just one rope, or walk off the northern side of sugarloaf.
Did 2 pitches of this route only. First pitch is the money pitch, a few .10c moves and a kinda sketchy traverse to the left up high. Second pitch is short and feels more like .10b than .10c
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA May 14, 2009
I agree: the first pitch is full-value, and the second pitch only has a few cruxes. The second pitch, however, is a bit more runout than the first. We continued to the third belay, but quickly became bored of 5.6R knob-hauls, and rappelled back down. Apparently, you can go to the top via more easy "R" climbing.
Very exposed climb, and reminiscent of the Valley. A must-do at the Loaf.
Full-value??? There's bolts every six feet. It's not run out or dangerous in any way.
Got bored huh, well you missed out on one of the coolest pitches on the route. Yeah, there's only two bolts in 140ft and only 5.6, but it's enough to get your attention a little bit. Some pretty cool rock up there with some enjoyable climbing.
Now go climb Pan Dulce, it's three pitches and of the same quality as Bolee Gold accept each pitch is 5.10+ and there are little to no run out sections.
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