Mike Dahlquist rides the first pitch of Pony Expre...
Description
Pony Express is a great way to start the day. The first pitch is worthy of 3 stars, a lieback flake for a ways then it turns into a left-facing open book.
The second pitch only deserves 1 star... continue up from the belay on easy climbing for ~20 feet then use a wide crack in the gully to pull a bulge (5.9). After the crux its 3rd class to the top.
Finding Pony Express is quite simple too. It starts in the middle of a clean face on a very obvious flake - the only one in the vicinity.
Protection
Up to 3 inches, there are bolts atop the first pitch, and plenty of huge boulders to sling atop the second.
Fun handcrack. Would be a great warmup but it's on the shady side of the Loaf in the am. Brr!!
It's worth toproping the .11b to the left from the bolted anchor if you're so inclined. thin edging fun.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 28, 2009
If just climbing the first pitch, a singe rope is sufficient to get you back down. Somewhere around 80' or so.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Mar 31, 2009 rating: 5.8
More like 5.8 (Supertopo rating)
Crux consists of a few 5.8 lieback moves. Great gear.
I used the anchor out to the right on the face. To spice up the route, bypass the bulge and go out and right directly onto the face (direct to anchor), no gear for ~8 ft or so and maybe a 5.9 move or two.
I didn't bother to climb the second pitch since I hadn't read or heard anything good about it, but this one pitch alone is utterly fantastic and a must-do! Not a single bad move on the entire thing.
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