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Pony Express 

5.9

   

FA: 1st P: Dick Long, 2nd: Gene Drake, Jim Hicks
Type: Trad
Length: 2 pitches, 170 feet
Views: 283 page views

Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 8, 2005


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Mike Dahlquist rides the first pitch of Pony Expre...


Description 

Pony Express is a great way to start the day. The first pitch is worthy of 3 stars, a lieback flake for a ways then it turns into a left-facing open book.

The second pitch only deserves 1 star... continue up from the belay on easy climbing for ~20 feet then use a wide crack in the gully to pull a bulge (5.9). After the crux its 3rd class to the top.

Finding Pony Express is quite simple too. It starts in the middle of a clean face on a very obvious flake - the only one in the vicinity.


Protection 

Up to 3 inches, there are bolts atop the first pitch, and plenty of huge boulders to sling atop the second.

Walk off to the north.



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First pitch of Pony Express (5.8) at sunset

BETA PHOTO: First pitch of Pony Express (5.8) at sunset

There are frequent big rests.

There are frequent big rests.

Jamming the upper part of the flake before the first ledge.

Jamming the upper part of the flake before the fir...

Laybacking to surmount the step in the upper corner.

Laybacking to surmount the step in the upper corne...

Paul making a big layback move. Is it really this low angle?

Paul making a big layback move. Is it really this ...


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By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Feb 19, 2008

Fun handcrack. Would be a great warmup but it's on the shady side of the Loaf in the am. Brr!!

It's worth toproping the .11b to the left from the bolted anchor if you're so inclined. thin edging fun.