The South Face of Sugarloaf is most impressive of the three climb-able sides. It faces downhill and contain predominantly hard bolted face climbs. Bolee Gold (.10c) is the easiest route on the face and offers two quality pitches of sustained smearing and crimping. Many climbs start by walking around to the right side of the face and making a 5th class move (you can protect) before moving onto easy slabs and up to the first belays.
Getting There
Upon finding the trail from the highway, hike uphill past Midway Rock (which will be obvious as you pass it) then the trail does a large swithback and then ascends up to Sugarloaf. The South face is staring directly at you as you hike.
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