Sugarloaf

Bill Price on "Grand Illusion". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Sugarloaf is a huge granite spire towering over the town of Kyburz on highway 50 between Placerville and Tahoe. It is considered an excellent winter crag because of its lower elevation and south-facing position. There's both sport and trad, single and multi-pitch and easy and hard climbs. The spire is about 350 feet tall and you can walk off the uphill side without much difficulty.

The Sugarloaf area also includes a few smaller rocks that you can find on the way up to Sugarloaf proper.

Getting There 

From the Bay Area, head East on 80 to Sacramento, then take 50 East, through Placerville and another ~31 miles to Silverfork. Once at the small gas station in Silverfork you have .6 miles until the dirth pullout on the side of the road (which is right after Sugarloaf Road). You'll be certain you're in the right place if you see the 'Entering Silverfork' roadsign just behind you on the opposite side of the road.

From the east end of the pullout, cross highway 50 and skirt the left side of the barbed-wire fence. Walk uphill for ~200 feet and you'll find a 'now entering forest service land' sign. From here a climber's trail is obvious and you just walk up it to the crags.

Sugarloaf is about a 30 minute hike straight up the hill.

Featured Route For Sugarloaf

Grand Illusion 5.13b  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf-East Face

Originally this climb was the third pitch of "The Fracture" and climbed on aid, but in 1979, Tony Yaniro freed this demanding route producing what at the time was the hardest climb in the world.There has been some controversy as to what was the first 5.13. This was climbed in 1979, and recorded as the first 5.13. Yosemite's "Phoenix" was climbed in 1977 which would make that the first 5.13. Whatever!This starts in an alcove and the route is obvio...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Sugarloaf

"Grand Illusion". Photo by Blitzo.	Sugarloaf, 1982. Photo by Blitzo.	"The Ghost In The Machine". Photo by Blitzo.