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Corn Flakes 

5.9

   

FA: Robert Oravetz, Eric Barrett, Dave Stam, 1977.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Views: 237 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean".


Protection 

Pro to 2".



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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2007

A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me.

By C Tirrell
From: Fort Collins, Co
Feb 8, 2009

The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.

By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
Sep 14, 2009

Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.

I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall.

I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lieback it. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine.

I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean.