Fear of Flying 

best line I've done at the spires!

Dan Osman onsight free soloed this and thought it was sandbagged.

So did I when I did it with a rope. There is some secret beta though that I found later on that helps....

The old guidebook called it a .9+. I thought it was pretty sustained, you could probably get away with calling it .10a. Good fun.

Technical, delicate, superb! A true classic at the grade. I prefer to link the corner into one long pitch with runners at the bottom.

.10a in my opinion. Either that or I was tired, or my shoes were too loose, or I was dehydrated, or my trick shoulder was acting up.

This route is fantastic and incorporates so many facets of climbing technique.

I was surprised to see how many people thought this was 9+/10a. I flashed this route yesterday (as one pitch, with a hole in my shoe, ha) and hadn't considered myself a true, solid 10a leader as of this moment, but perhaps it's all in the style.

The gear recommendation of pro to 3" baffles me. You certainly do not need anything over 1". Also, be sure to take plenty of very small cams (that would be < #0.3) and very small nuts.

There's a reason someone told me this route is "one of the best at the Spires." Fun and thought-provoking climbing through most of the climb, with the corner being the obvious crux.

I found this climb to be both technical and physical, as you're smearing your feet on tiny divots and pushing your body into the corner with constant body tension, or at least that's how I did it; some of the finger slots were too small to really stem up the corner so I had to improvise. I'm sure it's just because I'm out of shape but I'm sore the day after climbing this!

Definitely the hardest "5.9" I've climbed.