Regular Route lies on the East side of Middle Spire and starts about 25' left of the large dead horizontal tree/log. The first pitch is 70' and the start is an obvious left slanting hand crack on a near vertical face. Gear placement for the first 10' is a bit strenous as the crack wants to spit you out and you are falling to the left with little feet! A few hard moves brings you to an in-balance stance and from here on up the difficulty eases all the way to the slabby ledges. The second pitch is a 5.8 chimney which we didn't do. See The Prow!
Protection
Mostly medium to larger cams protect the harder lower hands to wide hands crack sections. Climbing eases after 25' but crack still takes small to medium gear. Most people stop on the slabby ledges which has plenty of 1-2" cracks for gear placement.
Middle Spire
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