Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
The Dead Pool... bonus points to the FA for combining both the Tombstone ledge theme names with the Dirty Harry theme names!
This route starts up by pulling up on a couple good size dikes between the first pitch of Traveler Buttress and the Silly Willy Crack. Clip the bolt, then pull into a roof and the dominant feature of the climb, a foot deep, shallow and bottoming corner.
Jam and pimp the inside of the flare, which will take a couple small stoppers before you hit the second bolt. Clip it and creep up the the dikes and cracks above.
It joins Traveler's about 70 feet up, so you get to finish on that awkward 5.8 wide flare (sandbag.) A big cam might be nice to have for this. Top 'er out. Or swing right 10' at the big break in the wall and belay off the Silly Willy bolts.
Location
Tombstone Ledge. Just right of the first pitch of Traveler buttress, left of the Silly Willy Crack.
You need gear!
gear thin to 2", two lead bolts. a #4 camalot or equivalent if you want to protect the weirdness in the Traveler Buttress section
For a fun day, do the Dirty Harry link up: Dirty Harry, 5.9 on the Shady Lady Magnum Force, 5.10b below main ledge The Dead Pool, 5.11c on Tombstone Ledge