Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Climb the shallow, right-facing corner and step right, following the bolts. Then climb the path of least resistance straight up to the top. A 70m rope or doubles / twins are needed to get down.
Location
On the right side of the Hogwild crag, take a left where the path meets the crag and walk uphill to where the path again meets the cliff. There should be a large, left-facing corner about 20 feet your right. Climb the shallow right-facing corner straight up the dikes to the chains above.
Protection
Mostly bolted, but small to medium sized cams work well at the top for extra protection.
Did this yesterday, and the crux was certainly getting past the first and second bolts, where the face moves felt more like 5.8 than 5.7 -- well protected, but thin moves for the grade.