By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Sep 4, 2007
We did this climb in 2 pitches:
p1: 190' rope stretcher to the good ledge. This pitch had interesting climbing, but I couldn't enjoy it because everything was LOOSE. I probably tapped about 12 holds that wiggled, and another dozen hollow flakes. I thought this pitch was scary and I only followed it. Tell your belayer to take care in case you accidentally trundle something on them. I hated this pitch.
p2: 130' to the top. This pitch by contrast was great! Only a couple small loose things, and fun climbing with varied movement. At the finish you can either climb the tree or finish on the steep roofs which go at a moderate .9 and protect well, really pretty cool!
I've been told you can do Deviate to the ledge, and so avoid that junky first pitch. I think I'm going to try that next time, because the first pitch stunk and the second pitch was great.
Happy to report, the Line's "Ugly Sister" had a facejob. No more loose blocks with "unclear attachment" or potential "life threatening ginsu flake chop" on the first pitch. All gone. In its place a lovely section of stemming opportunity that protects bomber. Now your beloved belayer can stand directly below you with greater peace of mind. Now nothing prevents this route from becoming as popular if not more popular than the Line. P.S. Definitely two pitches not three, in my opinion, first all the way to the ledge, second to the top.
East Wall
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