Start below the lone tree on the east side of Hogsback. The first pitch ends at the tree and is very easy. From the tree the second pitch contains some 5.5 moves, but due to the low angle of the rock it doesn’t feel that way. A 60 m rope gets you from the tree to the end of the second pitch. Use a 50 m and you will be belaying from the crack itself. Not that this is a bad thing as it helps to build confidence in belaying without a ledge.
The third pitch is again very easy to climb and protect. Upon reaching the top, walk off to the left to return to more climbs or to head for climbs at the Leap.
Protection
Small to large cams and chocks. I found an old piton on the second pitch that seemed fairly secure. There were one or two places I thought a Big Bro would fit.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Jan 23, 2007
you don't need big bros to do this route...
Also, I would recommend Deception (5.6) to fledgling leaders if there is a line on knapsack (quite common on weekends.) Deception generally has fewer parties, and much more quality 5th class moves with good gear.
Pop Bottle is another good 5.6 for a beginning leader, on the East wall. PB is also nice because you can walk off after the 1st pitch.
This is a good welcome climb to lover's leap. Big Bros are definetly unnecesary. I took a set of nuts and a light set of cams to BD#4 and was fine. There are so many places to protect, going bigger won't gain you anything.
p1. This was my GF first trad lead. It is pretty straightforward with good resting stances to place and a bomber tree to belay off of, which was good since she is less experienced at anchor building.
p2. Definetly climbing, but still not a problem.
p3. Again, mellow, but the moves are up and over a series of blocks, so it could get heady if you aren't confident at the grade.
Did this in a team of three as a simul-climb. There's nothing to worry about on this climb, though it does get a bit more interesting near the top where the crack flares and the blocks begin. Plenty of good gear if needed.
Hogsback
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