Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This fun low angle face climb starts on the far right side of the East Wall. The first bolt is 20ft up, but it is only 5.6 to that point. Follow a handful of well spaced bolts to the crack above. Fun lieback moves will get you to the anchor.
There is good gear on this climb, but it is well spaced to keep you on your toes. Probably not best climb for your first 5.10.
Location
Located about 120ft to the right of the Line. It is the last bolted climb on the far right side of the East Wall.
Protection
A few large nuts, and a single set of cams to #1 camalot
Nice route.Starts with four bolts, then I used #o-1(c3) for the first gear placement out left midway between bolt and first large roof/block. Then a couple more (Camalot c4).5-3.5 will protect the upper section well. Fun to toprope Left side corner and face although they are a bit dirty.
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