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East Wall
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East Wall 

5.5 PG13

   

FA: Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg, J, Sublette (1964)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Length: 3 pitches
Views: 150 page views

Submitted By: Salamanizer on Jul 3, 2007


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Description 

3 pitch climb. Pitch one is in right facing open book. Second pitch is a traverse left. Can be hard to find the route from belay. Go out to left of belay onto face. [You might be tempted to go up the obvious corner instead--don't unless you're looking for a more difficult variation--.] Just head toward bushy ledge, (it'll be the one with 6+ people on it). (belay #2). Look for the biggest dikes to go across. Just follow the dikes and gear placements and don't be tempted to start moving left too soon. Go up a bit before traversing left. Third pitch follows the bottleneck crack to the rim from bushy ledge.


Protection 

Cams, .5"-3" Nuts 1set.



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By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Jul 3, 2007

5.5? You're going to crush some egos there Salamanzier! heh heh!

As stated above, the safe and sane way to do the traverse is to do it high. You can do it lower for a more airy and less well protected experience.

Also, if bushy ledge is crowded and parties are lining up to do the standard finish, you can do an alternate finish to avoid the line. Head up for about 15-20 feet and then trend up and right under some small overlaps. Decent gear and easy climbing (mostly 5.4-5.5ish) for a ways, until you see an easy spot to pull the overlap and step on top. Remember, waiting in line is for suckers!