Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
It's Better with Bacon is a good route on a nice slab on Hogwild. The star rating is for the first 3 pitches.
P1: start up a thin right trending crack. when it peters out, step right into another very thin right trending crack. The cracks are very thin, and take small nuts, but the moves are slab moves.
P2: Straight up a 5.6 slab past 3 protection bolts.
P3: Up a 12' crack to a bolted 5.6 slab. There is a 5.8 roof that must be surmounted at the end of the pitch, very fun!
Location
Walk 100 yards past the beginning of the Hogwild until you see the two thin cracks of the first pitch that both trend up and right at a 45 degree angle, on a clean slab broken by good belay ledges.
Protection
bolts, gear to 1", small nuts and micronuts. All anchors bolted. You can rap the route with one 60m rope
By lars johnson From: San Francisco, CA Jun 6, 2007
The post forgot to mention the $$ pitch, #4. Mantels to long reaches if you are under 5'9" [5.8] and then a series of small roofs to a bolted belay on the left. Pitch 5 is usually skipped as it is dirty and loose. Pitch 3 rappel is 105' not quite reaching the bolts with a 60m rope. No worries as it is a huge ledge.
Very fun route and nicely protected. Leave the big pro at the car.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 22, 2008
Pitches 1 and 2 combine at 185'. Pitches 3 and 4 combine at 198'. From there, a short final pitch (~50') leads to the top and a straightforward walk off.
Kind of a boring route with false-advertising in the SuperTopo and a one-move wonder to push the grade. The thin-crack first pitch is fun to look at, but not that stiff. Bring micro nuts if you're not comfortable with run-outs. The third pitch offers the single 5.8 move, a high-step and smear over a well-protected roof. This would be a good practice climb for folks without slab experience.
The 5.8 roof feels contrived; in fact, when leading I didn't see the bolt and chose the easier variation 5' to the right (with solid pro, even!) that avoids the 5.8 altogether. After bringing up my second I lowered down so I could do the roof--it was fun but not remarkably so.
I am not as sour about the last pitch as most seem to be--it is a little dirty, but probably only because no one does it. I like P1 best.
Great climb with many interesting roofs in the final pitches. Guidebook (Supertopo) lists 5 pitches to the top, we linked 2-3 and 4-5 for a fantastic climb, a lot of fun with a variety of moves and rock. Final pitch was dirty, short 5th class, then 4th, belayed off the Juniper on the summit. I agree with Lars Johnson that pitch 4 is a lot of fun. If you are climbing on Hogwild after this, then rappel is OK. Otherwise, save the time and just climb out and walk down to the campground or the Leap itself.
RSS Feed
