Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
p1: 190' rope stretcher to the good ledge. This pitch had interesting climbing, but I couldn't enjoy it because everything was LOOSE. I probably tapped about 12 holds that wiggled, and another dozen hollow flakes. I thought this pitch was scary and I only followed it. Tell your belayer to take care in case you accidentally trundle something on them. I hated this pitch.
p2: 130' to the top. This pitch by contrast was great! Only a couple small loose things, and fun climbing with varied movement. At the finish you can either climb the tree or finish on the steep roofs which go at a moderate .9 and protect well, really pretty cool!
I've been told you can do Deviate to the ledge, and so avoid that junky first pitch. I think I'm going to try that next time, because the first pitch stunk and the second pitch was great.
Happy to report, the Line's "Ugly Sibling" had a facejob. No more loose blocks with "unclear attachment" or potential "life threatening ginsu flake chop" on the first pitch. All gone. In its place a lovely section of stemming opportunity that protects bomber. Now your beloved belayer can stand directly below you with greater peace of mind. Now nothing prevents this route from becoming as popular if not more popular than the Line. P.S. Definitely two pitches not three, in my opinion, first all the way to the ledge, second to the top.
Regarding introductory route description: Climbing the tree is the variation. Turning the roof is no harder than 5.9 and protects well.
I know most people love the "line", but I like PT a little more. Even with the old blocks, most feet are so bomber you can stand there and pat around for a good hold. The roof/mantle move at the exit is stellar. I do this one in two pitches as well.
Climbed this yesterday. Most of the big death blocks have been removed from the first pitch. There are still a hand full of smaller loose blocks, just tap the holds before you pull. There is still a good size loose half way up the second pitch.
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