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Magnum Force 

5.10b

   

FA: Greg Dexter, Jay Smith, 1977.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Views: 199 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007


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Will Sicke on Magnum Force. The crack to his left...


Description 

This is the crack to the right of "Mainline".
Do the first moves of "Mainline", then move right, into the crack. The crux is above a small roof.


Protection 

Pro to 1.5"



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Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.

Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.


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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

I always felt the crux was the savage boulder problem (for 10b) at the very bottom....kinda like T-Wall, the "first 10 feet" don't seem to count...

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Jun 4, 2007

Good route. It is a little crusty (but maybe because it's early in the season?) and my partner broke off a small dike while leading. Also, there is a very loose horn about 2/3 of the way up, just below the roof. It looked like it was rooted pretty well, but I don't think it would take too much to send it, bigger than a football. Take care. It is inviting, but easily avoided. I don't think it would change the grade if it gets trundled.

We didn't use any gear bigger than #1 camalot, doubles of small cams was nice. But, the anchor situation isn't the greatest, we used bigger cams for that up at the base of arctic breeze.

Opening boulder problem pretty delicate...