Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
On the steep cliff band below Main Ledge are two nearly parallel cracks. This climbs the left crack. Boulder up to the crack, after about 70', the crack turns up and left. 5.11 climbing leads to easy climbing and Main Ledge.
I found the bouldery start (which it shares with Magnum Force) to be nearly as difficult as the thin hands higher up. Maybe not technically, but more difficult to commit to. I used a green alien, small steel wire, and a 000 C3 off the deck and a .75 Camalot and orange Alien at the upper thin hands crux. Send it!