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Deception 
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Spam Sandwich 

Deception 

5.6

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Views: 398 page views

Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 23, 2007


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Description 

Deception shares the same start as Deception Direct, which takes the obvious vertical crack which goes up the entire formation, to the right/west of Knapsack.

Start up the crack in the corner, and once it becomes feasible to mantle up to the left, do so, and continue up and belay on a blocky ledge. If you miss the obvious mantle/traverse and head straight up, you're on deception direct, which has a thin 5.9 rp protected crux.

2nd pitch goes up, traverses left to a crack which parallels the first crack. Continue up this crack for a long way, then make an exciting 5.6 crux slab smear traverse to rejoin the original crack, and belay on the ledge.

3rd pitch pulls some blocky 5.6 mantles to the summit, short.


Location 

50' right/west of Knapsack crack. I would suggest this climb to fledgling leaders, since there is a lot more 5th class terrain on this route, as opposed to Knapsack. Plus, you don't generally have to wait in the Knapsack line, which often features very, very, slow parties.


Protection 

standard rack.



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By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008

Good climbing for someone new to the area or grade. It's well protected.

The crux is a slab traverse from crack system to crack system. i got a bomber nut in and took off. Still a bit pucker inducing, but doable if you keep moving.

Cheers