Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Start up a jagged detached flake to the face with multicolored green and orange lichen. Then, continue up the highly featured face protected by bolts. There are other knobs that can be slung, but they are not necessary. The dikes range from thin to huge on this fine route.
Location
Arctic Breeze is just around the corner to the left from Hospital Corner. The bolted arete is Nirvana, 11c, about 10' right of Arctic Breeze.
Protection
Bolts, 1 knob tie off, optional gear at start of route, optional knob tie off.
I don't have anything concrete, just heard the various grumbling and slander, that this might be a retrobolt of Arrowroot. Haven't been able to confirm this.
The first bolt has been replaced. I think there are 7 or 8 lead bolts total. You can still tie off a couple knobs, but it isn't necessary. Take care when rapping/lowering, as it takes all of 60m to get down.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Jun 28, 2009 rating: 5.10a
I enjoyed this route, even though my partner did not.
Crux is somewhere around the first 2 bolts, but I didn't really find it or any other part of this route that challenging.
I could see this route rated at 5.9
Confirmed 7 or 8 bolts, route is a full 100' rappel, okay with a 60m rope despite what Supertopo says.
Supertopo also says recommended for solid 5.10 leaders only, I disagree. This route is very safe and the climbing to the high first bolt is very easy 5th class.
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