Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This route starts up thin dikes on the face 25' right of Sinbad-Herbert. A few bolts to the roof crux, pull the roof and continue on .8 climbing to the anchor, which is shared with the Sinbad-Herbert. To descend, you need 2 60m ropes to rap, 1 70m to rap to the SH intermediate anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor or top it out at 5.6R.
Location
40' right of crud gully, 25' right of Sinbad Herbert. Continue up another 30' or so to get to the Groove.
Protection
Bolts. You can sling a good knob above the roof as well. Also, if you are a coward like me, you can clip the bolt below the roof, traverse right under the roof protected by yellow and red aliens, pull the roof out right where it is easier, and traverse back. I should point out that then you will have to live in shame like me if you do this.
Just commenting on myself here. Went back and did it, pulling the roof direct instead of traversing right then up. Really not too bad, and the .10c crux on this was WAY easier than that of Hemorrhoids in Flight, just 100 feet up the buttress. Although, there are some crispy flakes that may not be there forever.
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