Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
Show routes:
Select route...
Black Magic 
Black Opal 
Black Pyre 
Blue Wind 
Crown Royal 
Farce 
For Real Crack 
Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
Novitiate's Nightmare 
Pillar of Society 
Sinbad-Herbert 
Surrealistic Pillar 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
Variation 
Wild Turkey 

Sinbad-Herbert 

5.10d

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 180 feet
Views: 457 page views

Submitted By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Temporary closure at Lover MORE INFO >>>

Zach Thompson on the overhanging hands section of ...


Description 

Sinbad-Herbert starts just right of Crud Gully if you're facing the rock. It's a great, steep handcrack on the left wall, that goes to some intermediate anchors 60' up. Going just to here is probably .10a or .10b. From the intermediate anchors, continue up the bolted face for another 120'. It is all bolted face climbing, with bolts right at hard moves, well protected. Excellent moves. This is a newer route, and the upper section is still a little 'green' but still excellent.

You need 2 60m ropes to descend, one 70m to reach the lower anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor, or top it out at 5.6R.


Location 

Just right of Crud Gully, about 30' beyond the .7 start to surrealistic pillar.


Protection 

finger-hand sized cams for the crack, bolted upper face. Bolted anchor.



Photos of Sinbad-Herbert Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the 1st Pitch

Starting the 1st Pitch

Perfect hands!

Perfect hands!


Comments on Sinbad-Herbert Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tyler Logan
From: Running Springs
Aug 27, 2007

At least a couple of the bolts on the upper face are a bit reachy to clip. I'm 6' and I remember needing to either lock off pretty low or even jump, quickdraw in hand, to clip a couple of them. Rock quality above the first-pitch belay is poor for about 20 or 30' and, although easy climbing, you wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt on that pitch--especially if onto your belayer. This is a very good reason to do the climb in one long 200' pitch.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009

Couldn't figure out where the second pitch started, I looked around for bolts and chalk, but couldn't see anything except what appeared to be virgin rock.

Regardless, the first pitch is considered a lower buttress classic by many. While I agree that it's a good route overall, I do think that a .10b rating is an inflated grade if you use the wall to the right. I've done it both ways and I've been told by many people that the wall to the right is on. If this is true, I'd give this pitch 5.9 for taller climbers and maybe .10- for shorter climbers.

By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
Jul 24, 2009

The "perfect hands" section up higher is more like "perfect elbows" for some of us! :)

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Nov 16, 2009

Perfect Elbows? Sounds pretty slammer. You propose 5.8 then?

This climb can also be led just using the corner, without going into the perfect elbows crack on the left.

To begin the extension, or second pitch, there are two ways. From the anchor you can creep out right onto the face, over, up and back left a tad to the first lead bolt. A little spicy and poor rock quality.

A better choice is to just cruise up the crummy gully to the left then step right out onto the face next to the bolt. Still bad rock, but easy climbing.

Also, with regard to the reachy clips, this was put up on lead by a 5'6" climber!