Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Begin at a tree where the Farce starts. Climb past a bolt to a shallow jamcrack. follow this to an overhang with two bolts. Climb over this overhang and up to a belay. Scrambling leads to the top.
By caughtinside From: Berkeley, CA Jun 18, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Did this 6/07. Very interesting route with a variety of moves on it. Starts same spot as the farce. you climb up to a leeper + buttonhead that actually protects a delicate move. Nothing else between you and the ground, so take care.
The roof crux is pretty physical, but takes awesome gear, so plug it quick and fire it.
Up above is easier climbing, but crack is wide/flarey and gear isn't great...
Also, I took a #3 camalot and placed it, and probably could have placed another. 4 bolts on the climb, 2 are good modern bolts, one is the leeper/buttonhead one, and there's one more old bolt.
By caughtinside From: Berkeley, CA Sep 17, 2009 rating: 5.10c
The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts.
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