Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the West Face. Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Higher, offwidth and fist lead past a bolt to a belay. Climb offwidth to a roof and hand-traverse out of the corner. Climb up to "Craven Image".
This route is stellar. Not typical Leap climbing, as you only make a few dike moves early to get into the crack chimney. From there it is smooth rock and physical climbing, very Yosemite-esque.
Highly recommended!
I would also Strongly recommend taking 2 #3 camalots and 2 #4 camalots. I also had a #4 friend (halfway in between #3 and #4 camalot size) that I was happy to have.