Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Climb a huge flake to the right of "Vanishing Point" for two 5.9 pitches to a 12' roof. Climb the wide crack through the roof. Above the roof, walk left then climb to the bowl of "Craven Image". Follow that route to the top.
i just heard a neat story about this route yesterday. I guess there were at one time 3 chockstones in the roof crack, hence the route name. You'd pull the chockstones to get through. Now, there are zero chockstones, and I've heard pulling this roof is .11+ maybe...
Tried this last weekend, climbing the first pitch of Vanishing Point to approach the roof crack. The OW roof is definitely harder than 5.10c (unless 1.this is a complete sandbag or 2.I am a complete weenie); 5.11+ is probably more correct. I resorted to aid. This part might be somewhat height dependent. Instead of going left above the 2nd pitch, my partner and I cut out right for one pitch of poorly protected face climbing and then a final pitch that was easy but loose to the top. Going left may have been a better option.
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