Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This route climbs the striking jamcrack, left of a pink wall. Start in the low-angle section of "Craven Image". Diagonal left until a large left-facing corner is almost reached and belay. Climb this corner to ledges.
Climb the identifying jamcrack to a belay ledge. This is a great pitch! A long face pitch leads past a bolt to the Slash. Continue to the top.
Not sure about Blitzos discription of the first couple pitches. I suppose that's one way of doing it, but certainly not the best approch. Climbing a shallow corner system directly below the second pitch jamcrack in a "direct approach" has been the more popular way to reach the first pitch belay ledge. However this pitch has it's pit-falls as well. It's slightly run out with some finicky gear in spots, and is pretty dirty. This pitch is shown as a dotted line (marked .8r) in a direct line below the second pitch in the falcon guide.
Another approach (which with some traffic and cleaning would prove to be the most enjoyable and aesthetic approach) is to climb the left faceing corner (mistakeingly marked as the true first pitch in the falcon guide with a circled P) to the belay ledge below the jamcrack. This corner climbs a short shallow crack with limited gear then traverses up several feet and to the left on beautiful dikes to gain the main corner system. This corner system climbs a dirty low angle crack for a short distance then turns into a beautifully clean lieback flake that tends slightly out left to a stance under a steep roof which is split by a perfect finger crack heading right. After making the traverse, a short mantle will bring you to the large belay ledge. There are a couple fixed pins (and gear) that make up the anchor. The beautiful handcrack is directly above.
The route now has fixed gear and slings at the first and second pitches making it possible to rap (in two rappels) with a 60m rope, but just barely. Watch the ends of your rope rapping from the second pitch as you will barely make touchdown before the ends slip through your rappel device. For this reason the rapel is somewhat dangerous, so pay attention!
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