Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Start 30' left of the gully of the right side of Eagle Buttress. Climb past a roof and 50' of 5.10c jamming to a scooped overhang and belay. Pass the overhang then step left to a long 5.10b jamcrack. When possible, step left to a corner and follow it to the Main Ledge. Follow one of the "Eagle Buttress" routes to the top.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.10d
P1 only.
Pretty damn hard for alleged .10c, I give it .10d as Supertopo suggests. Roof is definitely the crux, but the tricky moves don't end once you pull the roof, another 10-15 feet of .10c climbing will keep you on your toes.
Start out the route below the roof to the right and traverse into the bottom of the roof. An awkward corner brings you to a few under-clings and a flaring, okay hand jam in the roof that feels worse the more you work your body up over the roof. Make a tricky move out to the left and grab a giant knob that looks better than it is and bring your feet up and over the roof to a good stance and start working your way up the flared .10c finger crack to big jugs.
The crux was hard for me at 6'4" and seemed sequency. I fell a few times before finally figuring it out.
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