Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on three fixed pins.
P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.
P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.
P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.
Just did the first two pitches, but they were really good! P1 was a steep dikey 5.7 that was pretty fun, this would be a good alternative to a busy corrugation corner. You can rap from the top with two single rope raps, down to Stemmeister anchor and then to main ledge.
Followed p2, that is one outstanding pitch. relentless with great climbing and few true rests, good gear and some powerful moves. The roof start to p3 looked airy and scary!
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