Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This route starts on an easy slab just to the left of Deception. Belay just to the left of the first belay of Deception. From here, move out left on the slabs along a small roof and up to a series of three bolts that protect the crux slab moves. Now move into a right facing corner (decent pro) then up into a left facing corner where you need to set up a belay just under the 4 ft (mantle) roof. Now mantle the roof, work your way over some easy slab and over a few easy bulges to the top. Kinda runout but acceptable. Good practice for slab.
Did this route 5/07. Great slab route, moves are protected. Take some thin gear, and run it out on easier (5.5) ground. I felt pretty runout, but my partner told me I missed some gear placements.
SAFETY ALERT: the second belay is a little below the summit, at the top of the left facing corner. There is a completely detached block the size of a basketball sitting on the ledge. We would liked to have trundled it, but there were too many people. Take care, and if the hogsback is clear of parties, send this block down if you see it before it kills somebody.
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