Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
A typical move--lay off the crack, palm the left w...
Description
If you idea of a good time is is Dike hike'n this is a great route. I personally didn't mind the crack line but didn't care a lot for the mantel moves over dikes for the sole reason of not being able to get a good rhythm going up a nice crack.
Location
To the left of the Farce about 20'.
Protection
Standard rack of nuts & cams. Don't remember any fixed bolts other than belay anchors.
This follows a crack/corner. There are pretty big dikes which you mantle. Some strectchy moves. Bolts at top of first pitch. Second pitch is short and real easy but little to no protection.
The first move is 10-something if you do the obvious and jam it. Fortunately, after some consultation with ground control, I figured out the easier way. I have some sympathy with the "dike and hike" comment above. Although I enjoyed the route, I found myself getting a little annoyed at having to do the same move over and over: feet and hands on big dike, but crack more or less useless and the right wall concave. I typically would lean way left off the crack, palm the left wall, smear the right wall, high step onto the high dike, and then struggle to rock onto it. The much easier second pitch is worth doing if only for the view of the main wall above. We had never been up there, and it was a gorgeous fall day.
By Aerili From: Reno, NV May 31, 2009 rating: 5.8+
The rating on this route seems a little bit dependent on height. The start was definitely easier for my 6' partner as he was able to make the initial move straight on and hit the big jam up high directly as he smeared up in one move, thus allowing him to put his foot in the giant pod with a secure hand jam. At 5'6", I had to do two tenuous smearing moves in a left layback position off the ground, shift my balance straight, then gaston the two slopey edges of the wide pod (effortful) in order to hike one foot up into it before I could stand up and reach that jam. Kinda hard! A spotter is a nice thing to have in such case.
The rest of the route is quite well protected.
By caughtinside From: Berkeley, CA Jun 19, 2009 rating: 5.8
Couple things about starting this route...
It may be that it is more difficult if you are short. It is one move of 5.8 for me at 5'10", then the rest of the climb is 5.7 or easier.
However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent.
Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. I did this years ago in my beginner days. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.
However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent. Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.
Ah, yes, certainly I did get that key foothold (only way I could hold that layback position), but when you have to make 2-3 additional moves, it soon feels a bit tenuous.
As for pre-placing a cam over your head, no, you cannot do this if you cannot reach said placement; don't think I didn't try! My 6' partner was able to place it, however.
By caughtinside From: Berkeley, CA Jul 13, 2009 rating: 5.8
hmm, just did it again the other day. because of the sloping ground at the start, you can lean in from uphill and slot the cam if you wish. It was around chest height for me from up there.
Single 60 m rope just long enough to bail from the P1 bolts. Supertopo says the bolts are 120' off the deck which is probably not correct. I'd say closer to 98' as both ends of the rope barely make it to the ground.
Agree with other posts on the importance of placing a piece from the ground to protect the first two moves and that I often found myself lying back off the left side of the crack.
Bring a bunch of small pro. You'll need it.
BTW - I'm tired of all the short guy whining! Y'all will make it up just fine :)
By Aerili From: Reno, NV Jul 24, 2009 rating: 5.8+
Whoa, daniel, I am neither short nor whining. Wtf.
I realize now that c.i. and I are talking about different placements. Yes, I can reach the one he refers to, but it's not really high enough to keep you from hitting the rocks below, plus I wanted to put my fingers there, not gear. I'm referring to the #1 jam up higher, which is where my partner could put a cam (but I couldn't).
Tried the move unroped in my approach shoes the other day with a straight-on gaston off the pod, and it felt much easier than before, no laybacking required. I wasn't in as good shape two months ago, plus it was my last route to lead for the day then and I was tired.
However, the rating off the ground still remains a bit height dependent imo.*
[*This beta is for others my height or shorter. So all you taller climbers can ignore it, k.]
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Aug 6, 2009 rating: 5.8
First half of p1 has a lot of 5.8 moves, in between huge, hands-free rests. The crux 5.8 move is definitely off the ground and it is not that far away from a huge jug, 10 feet up.
Second pitch is definitely "R" rated, but the climbing is super easy 4th and 5th class and maybe one, 5.6'ish move just above the belay.
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