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East Wall
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East Crack 

5.8

   

FA: TM Herbert, Gordon Webster, 1966
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 513 page views

Submitted By: Salamanizer on Apr 3, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Checking out the small roof on the first pitch of ...


Description 

The crux comes on the second pitch when climbing over several bulges. The bulges are short but sweet with easier climbing in between. A good route to break into the 5.8 realm. The route meets up with several other routes at bushy ledge. Expect crowds on most sunny days.


Location 

The climb starts just to the left of bears reach and follows a double crack system. Walk down the decent trail on the back side of the route.


Protection 

Cams, .5" - 3" Nuts, 1 set.



Add Photo Photos of East Crack
Jason hangin' out while waiting for the 1st. belay station to clear. On busy days at the leap alternate belay's can be common

BETA PHOTO: Jason hangin' out while waiting for the 1st. belay...

After waiting in the sun for quite some time due to several parties clogged higher on the route, a little shade is a welcome relief

BETA PHOTO: After waiting in the sun for quite some time due t...

After the crowds clear Brett gets to start the 2nd pitch of East crack

BETA PHOTO: After the crowds clear Brett gets to start the 2nd...

Brett placing some pro before attempting the crux bulge section on the 2nd pitch

BETA PHOTO: Brett placing some pro before attempting the crux ...

Continuing through the series of bulges on east crack

BETA PHOTO: Continuing through the series of bulges on east cr...

Jason beginning pitch 3 of east crack.  This is just leaving the "bushy ledge" belay station of pitch two.  This ledge is shared by several different routes and can be the cause of a lot of congestion with parties when the leap is busy.

BETA PHOTO: Jason beginning pitch 3 of east crack. This is ju...

Brett following up the crux bulge on pitch 1 of east crack

BETA PHOTO: Brett following up the crux bulge on pitch 1 of ea...

Jason coming through the series of bulges on east crack

BETA PHOTO: Jason coming through the series of bulges on east ...

Brett working his way up the 3rd pitch just under the small roof crux

BETA PHOTO: Brett working his way up the 3rd pitch just under ...

East Crack.

East Crack.

Eric chillin' on the belay ledge of East Crack.

Eric chillin' on the belay ledge of East Crack.


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By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Jun 12, 2007

I've always liked this one better than Bear's for some reason. Maybe because it doesn't have the hype? Fun crux moves.