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East Wall
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Haystack 

5.8

   
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FA: Ken Edsburg, TM Herbert, Jerry Sublette, 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 588 page views

Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 29, 2006


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Starting up the first pitch.


Description 

The crux is getting on the route in the summer. There's always a line so come early....real early. This route is a good entry level 5.8. Most of the pitches check in around 5.5 - 5.6. Midway up the second pitch is where you'll find the crux bulge. Its well protectable and only one short 5.8 move over it. The route is also really easy to follow. This is the best route to score booty gear on after a summer rain storm or early on Sunday mornings:)


Location 

Right off the approach trail to East Wall, on your right. No fixed protection at belays. Walk down the obvious decent trail to get down.


Protection 

Cams, .5" - 2" Nuts, 1 set.



Add Photo Photos of Haystack
Route tracing: showing p2 roof crux.

BETA PHOTO: Route tracing: showing p2 roof crux.

unknown climber making the crux move past the roof on pitch 2 of the haystack crack

BETA PHOTO: unknown climber making the crux move past the roof...

Working out the roof move.  There is supposed to be a "hidden hold" here somewhere?

BETA PHOTO: Working out the roof move. There is supposed to b...

A really fun move to pass the roof on haystack crack.  It can be done fairly easily if you find the hidden hold.  Unfortunately that didn't happen for me right off!

BETA PHOTO: A really fun move to pass the roof on haystack cra...

Brett at the top of pitch 3 on haystack crack

BETA PHOTO: Brett at the top of pitch 3 on haystack crack

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's...............a Foot?   Hmmmmmm?

It's a bird, it's a plane, it's...............a Fo...

Arin towards the top of Haystack.

Arin towards the top of Haystack.


Add Comment Comments on Haystack
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

I always found the moves about 40' below the roof to feel "cruxy". Even saw someone whip there...

These moves are right off the first belay ledge; do not hesitate to protect well right there...

By GMBurns
From: Boston, MA
4 days ago

I loved this route from bottom to top. The first pitch offers fun climbing either in the corner on the left or the face to the right. Naturally, the second pitch roof is of Gunks quality, and is the crux. Even the third pitch offers some exciting moves. A must do if you're heading to the Leap.