Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
East Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Bear's Reach 
East Corner 
East Crack 
East Wall 
Fantasia 
Far East 
Fear No Evil 
Haystack 
Labor of Love 
Line, The 
Out to Lunge 
Pigs on the Wing 
Pop Bottle 
Preparation H 
Psychedelic Tree 
Scimitar 
Unnamed 

Scimitar 

5.9

   

FA: FFA: Jim Orey, F. Van Overbeck 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 331 page views

Submitted By: Salamanizer on Mar 15, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Final pitch of Scimitar.


Description 

A definite step up from the Line. This route has beautiful crack systems, roofs, bulges, route finding and a short heady unprotected face section. The crux is pulling the exposed roof after the 5.6R section on the second pitch. After negociating the first pitch its a strait line to the top. Some wandering from right to left and back is required to find the best holds on the runnout section.


Location 

Just to the right of Fantasia and the left of East Crack. Ask someone, they'll point it out.


Protection 

Cams 1-2ea .5"-3" Nuts 1set.



Add Photo Photos of Scimitar
Dana tops out on Scimitar - a really great route!

Dana tops out on Scimitar - a really great route!


Add Comment Comments on Scimitar
Show which comments
By Jonathan Howland
Sep 20, 2006

A far better route than its relative lack-of-traffic would indicate. Have seen parties stacked up at the base of Bear's R. and The Line when Scimitar was wide-open, and it doesn't head/devolve into the traffic of formerly-bushy ledge like so many other nearby E. Wall routes. "Better route": varied, relatively continuous but mostly easy climbing; interesting gear placements/problems (but more than adequate gear); some typical LL route-finding conundrums that give you mindful pause.
One caveat: protect the .9 move on P2 (post-5.6 "run-out") carefully: a decent small cam in the crack as well as another better cam, or a nut, in the horizontal crack 3 feet left and just below this one-move crux.

By 426
Mar 10, 2007

A great route with some fantastic moves. I almost took a serious Birdman when I grabbed a bat behind a flake near the end of the 5.5 runout, so watch yerself...