Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. Protect this bulge both before and after it. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. The key to making the first bulge easy is to find the hidden handhold. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left of the ledge.
The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Stay to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. It’s not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.
Location
The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)
Protection
Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch
When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.
Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.
During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet higher and to the right. There are actually 3 bolts at the end of P2 - one old 1/4 incher and two newer bolts. I clipped all three because the hangers on newer bolts were loose, though the bolts themselves seemed bomber.
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