Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This route is located on the far right side of the lower Buttress. It is a fast way to the upper tier, when there are lines on the Pillar. The pitches can be combined into one long lead with a 60M rope. The climb follows large crack systems that you stem and face climb around. The climbing is steep and a little runout, so it is probably not a great climb for a 5.5 leader. The top pitch is on runout dike climbing.
A couple guidebooks list the direct start to this as 5.6. I'd disagree and say the direct start has a 5.8 move on it, but is worth doing. the Novitiate's Nightmare finish is also recommended!
The hardest part of this climb was the rope drag. Because there are so many options, placing for rope management becomes key.
honestly, this was a little more pucker inducing than bears reach or corrugation corner, both 5.7.
Glad I did it, but i don't need to do it again.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO May 25, 2009 rating: 5.5
The direct start felt solid at 5.8--5.8+. The foot work is a bit tricky and the jams are poor while laying-back makes the footwork even more difficult.
On the other hand, the pro is excellent. The direct start adds ~20 feet of stellar climbing. Go for it!
great to see that other climbers found the direct start harder than 5.6. i thought i was going crazy. agreed on 5.8+ for the direct start. the rest of the climb is a really fun 5.5.
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