This is great TR or heady lead in between the 5.10b and 5.7 starts of Surrealistic Pillar. The climb starts out with some runout face climbing for 30ft, before gear can be placed. Pull left into some thin cracks and follow them to the roof above. Jam the powerful crux roof and continue on easy rock to the anchors.
By manuel rangel From: tempe, az Feb 20, 2006 rating: 5.10b/c R
I thought we were on the other 10 variation, made for fun runout climbing. Very tricky climbing, well worth the effort, protecting the roof was very strenuous.
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Jul 17, 2006 rating: 5.10b R
That roof (and variation) is 10b.....10c if you really want to stretch it. It's not really runout either. Plenty of stuff to sling to keep yourself from hitting the deck. It's a bit spicy, but definitely not runout.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Dec 11, 2006 rating: 5.10b R
pulling the roof direct is .10b.
By manuel rangel From: tempe, az Jan 5, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c R
I still think it's a runout lead. Especially considering today's climbs. Slinging horns is nice but I felt sketchy and it was gonna hurt if I fell. I consider that runout, from the leader's point of view. Without more folks leading this route to gain consensus we are left with those who feel runout and those who don't. I felt runout. Good climb though.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Jan 9, 2007 rating: 5.10b R
Hi Manuel,
where did you think the .10c/d moves were? pulling the roof to the jam, and then the big knob? concensus around the Leap seems to put that move at .10b...
By manuel rangel From: tempe, az Jan 22, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c R
I'll have to go back and lead it again, I can't really remember where exactly I thought the crux was, I felt more runout than anything. I think I was worried about getting to the roof and then plugging in a cam. The climbing wasn't too difficult but I did feel out there compared to most cracks. Kinda like cochise climbing.
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