Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
The zoom function might be needed to see the leade...
Description
This climb is located just to the right of "The Line". It is a fun dike climb with big reaches and runouts. If you are short, this climb may feel like 5.11. It will probably feel on the easy side if you tall. The crux is well protected, but there are 15-20ft runouts on easier rock. Rap with two ropes from chains...
Seems a little silly but I would like to set the record straight. This route was envisioned by me and was hand drilled ground up by me. Thus the name. It was then lead bottom to top by me and seconded by Toivo Kodas. The entire route was done on 9/12/87. We originally called it 5.9 for tall folks and 10- if you are short like me. Glad to see it is getting climbed as it was a lot of work to put it up.
By Salamanizer From: Vacaville Ca. Apr 6, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b PG13
Calling that route a sport route is retarded, (no offence). It is most definitely a trad route with bolts for pro. A masterpiece of good style if I may say so myself.
This climb gets my vote for the best 5.10 dike pitch at the Leap. I forgot how scary the climb is. There are some 5.9 mantles about 15-20ft out from the bolts. You will remember this climb after the rest become a distant memory.
I don't know Andrew. I always wanted the bolt to be within reach before making the awkward mantle. It always seemed like I was making the hardest move 15 ft above my last bolt, then making the clip. Fun but scary route.
5.9 for tall folks is fair, didn't seem like there were any "crux mantles 15 feet above bolts". I felt very secure on the easier climbing between bolts and also at the distinct crux with the bolt at my chest.
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