Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
BETA PHOTO: Most of hushed passage, the top anchors are just o...
Description
The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.
The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.
Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.
Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.
Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is shared with the middle bolts of God of Thunder (5.11b/c). Stick clip the first bolt and you can remove the "S" rating.
I started on the face near the start of Rehab and traversed the dikes to the right over to the first bolt of Hushed Passage. Safer this way, but not .10c and most likely not the actual start of this route. I finished up on the second half of rehab so fortunately the route was still challenging.
Next time I'll have to try out the correct opening moves of Hushed Passage.
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