This route is located about 50 feet left of the East Crack(5.8), and about 75 feet right of the East Corner (5.10d).The East Crack is the largest Crack system on the left sideof the East Wall, and heads straight up for the first twopitches, and then leans right as seen from the trail below.
To find this climb, look for a very featured slab thatcontinues up the face to a diagonal roof. The diagonal roofstarts at the ground, and works upwards until it meets thisroute about 50 feet off the ground. This route headsdirectly up the middle of the slab over a corner in the roof.This route deserves at LEAST an s rating, as there are somebalancy and commiting moves a long ways up from any placedprotection. On top of that, you can't place your first prountil 50+ feet into the route, though the bottom section ispretty simple.
Pitch 1:
From the start of the route, head up over this roof,work up to another small roof, and then over to the first bolted anchor, about140 feet up.
Pitch #2:
This shorter pitch is probably the simplest pitch on theroute, and as defintately the best protected. From the firstbelay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads to the second bolted belay station.
Pitch #3:
This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock, thoughthe last 40 - 50 feet are pretty licheny. Climb up to alarge roof, and find your way over. Ascend stright up theface to the large rock pile directly upslope from the roof. Find a way up this rock pile, and use a crack or tree tobelay the rest of your party.
Protection
up to 2.5". Bring long slings, you will need themon almost every placement.
East Wall
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