Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
The first pro is under that roof with the horizont...
Description
This route is located about 50 feet left of the East Crack(5.8), and about 75 feet right of the East Corner (5.10d).The East Crack is the largest Crack system on the left sideof the East Wall, and heads straight up for the first twopitches, and then leans right as seen from the trail below.
To find this climb, look for a very featured slab thatcontinues up the face to a diagonal roof. The diagonal roofstarts at the ground, and works upwards until it meets thisroute about 50 feet off the ground. This route headsdirectly up the middle of the slab over a corner in the roof.This route deserves at LEAST an s rating, as there are somebalancy and commiting moves a long ways up from any placedprotection. On top of that, you can't place your first prountil 50+ feet into the route, though the bottom section ispretty simple.
Pitch 1:
From the start of the route, head up over this roof,work up to another small roof, and then over to the first bolted anchor, about140 feet up.
Pitch #2:
This shorter pitch is probably the simplest pitch on theroute, and as defintately the best protected. From the firstbelay station, continue up the face to a horizontal cracksystem that leads to the second bolted belay station.
Pitch #3:
This long pitch will get you to the top of the rock, thoughthe last 40 - 50 feet are pretty licheny. Climb up to alarge roof, and find your way over. Ascend stright up theface to the large rock pile directly upslope from the roof. Find a way up this rock pile, and use a crack or tree tobelay the rest of your party.
Protection
up to 2.5". Bring long slings, you will need themon almost every placement.
I still think this route is 5.9. Take a couple of 1/2" webbing slings, esp for the Three Grey Knobs. They probably won't hold anything but they'll give you an ephemeral feeling that you're ok. I led all this route twice in the 80s and think it is the best route at the Leap, for aesthetics, boldness, and having to really commit yourself fully: all those great values of 60s/70s rock climbing. One of the great, great routes, but need to have serious cool head and experience or you'll get hurt.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
