Dear John Buttress

Temporary closure at Lover MORE INFO >>> Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317. Here's a map: 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009 Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This rock holds some really tough flared crack routes and sparing mixed sport and sport routes. Climbing is on vertical and slightly overhung clean rock.

This rock is the next large rock west of the main wall, and though not as imposing, still is about 130 feet tall and contains climbs from 1 - 2 pitches, depending on where you are on the rock.

This rock is almost always in the shade, due to large trees surrounding the main climbing area, which faces east. It's an excellent spot on a hot day, since there are some cool updrafts.

All routes that reach the top can be wlkaed off to the left. Otherwise, lower off, since most routes have top anchors on the wall.

Getting There 

Approach time: 15 - 25 minutes (from the parking lot), 3 minutes from the West Main Wall.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium suzed tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the Lower Buttress in front of one of few sport routes.

Continue on past the lower buttress by walking around the right side of the wall up the terraces. Continue up the decent trail into the scree field, where Dear John Buttress will hover a uphill and slightly right. Almost to the top (where the Lower Buttress seems to be ending, there will be a fork in the road. Instead of bearing left to go to the top of the lower buttress, continue up and right into the trees following the gradient. The wall will appear in the trees shortly, with the trail hitting the rightmost routes on the rock first.

The Classics