Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.
One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.
All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.
Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.
From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Buttress:
This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right. Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
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