Indian Springs

BETA PHOTO: Shot of Indian Springs shown from the parking lot....

Description 

Indian Springs is a 3-tiered south facing granite slab with about 20 routes ranging from 5.9 to hard 5.11. Most of the routes are bolted with additional trad gear possibilities here and there to help protect longer runout sections. A few climbs are strickly trad. The rock is excellent quality making for exceptional face climbing routes. Indian Springs Campground is just down the road and the close-by South Yuba River offers a wonderful dip after a hot day of climbing. To descent off the upper tier, walk left down the western rock slabs circling back around to the cliffs. The trail is pretty much non existent through the manzanita so most people rappel down the main slabs. Double bolts with chains and rappel rings are easily found on top of most routes. Access is free and the approach is a fairly easy 10-15 minutes walk straight in from parking lot following a small trail to slabs which can be hiked up to the right to the top and then left to base of lower tier. The best path is not obvious but basically you head for the left side of the lower tier. Either way, you can't get lost as the cliffs are always in plain sight. The lower tier offers numerous introduction routes in the 5.9 to 5.10 range which are excellent leads. All routes can be top-roped also by scambling up the left side. Some of the routes do have some runout sections which may or may not have trad placement possibilities. Climbers should be solid at the grade they are climbing. Recommended routes are Indian Springs (5.9), Zephyr (5.10c/d), Fire Stone (5.9), and Rocco's Corner (5.9+).

Indian Springs does have a two page spread in Mike Carville's Falcon Guide called Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe.The guide has a sketch of the 3-tiers with route names, ratings, and locations identified.

Getting There 

Indian Springs is conveniently located 1 mile east of Cisco Grove on the north side of Interstate 80 about 45 miles east of Auburn and 12 miles west of Donner Pass Summit. Exit at the Eagle Lakes Rd exit and turn north and west following the Eagle Lakes frontage road for about 1/2 mile. An obvious pullout parking area is found on the right side with a clear view of the cliffs on the right about 500 yards away.

Featured Route For Indian Springs

Fire Stone 5.9  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Upper Tier

Fire Stone starts up and right from Rocco's Corner about 15'. You must scramble up a little chimney to reach the face which is just right of an obvious easy crack climb called Super Doo (5.2). Climb up past first bolt through a nicely featured face. To get to the second bolt, which is quite a ways away, move up and delicately step left just below the bolt. You would hit the deck if you slipped off here. Move up to the obvious left facing fla...[more]