Heinous Anus 

FA:  Dave and Mike Hatchett and Rick Lovelace Type:  Trad, Sport, TR Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 145 page views Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 18, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Getting out of the anus. Don't give me a hard tim...

Description 

The left-most established climb on Old Peculiar, Heinous Anus begins with a very overhung crack in a dihedral. After the two bolts protecting the crack head right to get over the roof, then up a layback flake which ends yielding some stemming moves before you reach the top. Tape up for the bottom crack!

Protection 

Two bolts low and one high protect Heinous Anus. You'll probably also need a nut or two around .5" to protect the crack above the roof and either slings or medium-sized cams will make a suitable anchor.

If you wanted to, you could lead Hanus Anus purely trad. #2 to #3 cams would fit nicely in the bottom crack.

For setting up a top rope, hike around the left of Old Peculiar then find the old wind-blown tree that is depicted in Carville's topo. From there, downclimb some class three for about 15 feet to a large ledge where Off-Width Their Heads, Sun and Steel and Heinous Anus all finish. Heinous Anus is on the right side of the ledge.

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BETA PHOTO: Heinous Anus from the left side of 'the crack'