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Eagle Lake Buttress
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East Ridge Route. 
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Eagle Route 

5.5

   

FA: Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5 [details]
Views: 257 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: "Eagle Route".
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.
Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.
Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.
Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.


Protection 

Pro to 2".



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Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind Tree Route

Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind...


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By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Great route in a great setting.

By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
Aug 3, 2009

Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.

Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.

I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.

We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit.