Touch and Go 

FA:  Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  80 feet Views: 123 page views Submitted By: caughtinside on Jun 9, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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description 

NOTE: The Carville guide shows this as a right hand variation to the Rat's Tooth. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide shows this as Touch and Go. Given the volume of errors in the Carville guide, I think this is touch and go.

On the right side of the Rat's Tooth is this climb, which goes up a cool looking flaring squeeze, with the rat's tooth flake at your back. There is a handcrack all the way up the back, so this climb protects really well, always nice in a chimney!

Physical moves up steep rock will get your heart pumping. Shares the last 40' with the Rat's Tooth, to some chains. Rap off.

Protection 

Take extra #2 camalots, 4 would be nice on the route, it eats them up. Nothing bigger than a #3. Upper section takes some smaller items as well.

Location 

The very right side of the Rat's Tooth, obvious flaring chimney. On the left side of the Black Wall, just left of the classic One Hand Clapping.