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Mary's Crack 

5.8

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 260 feet
Views: 250 page views

Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on May 6, 2008


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Description 

This is a fun route with mostly easy climbing and two crux sections, one down low and the second up high on the second pitch.

Start in the same area as the Kindergarten Cracks. This is defined by a large right-facing corner, then a smaller right-facing corner to its right.

Mary's Crack starts in the next crack system to the right of these 2 corners, just left of the headwall at the base of the rock.

1) Climb the steep hand crack and continue up the slab above, aiming for the slot which goes through the upper headwall/roof at a large left-facing corner. Belay at the base of the corner with a large horn which can be slung, or continue up the slab to a small pedestal and belay off cams right below the roof. (5.8, 160 feet)

2) Crank through the slot with good feet and good jams, and continue easily to the top. The roof is well-protected with a #2 and #4 Camalot. (5.8, 100 feet)

Descend by walking off to the West.


Protection 

Standard to light rack, up to a #4 Camalot.



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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 5, 2009

We weren't sure where to go on the second pitch so we tried the left crack of the two cracks in the middle of the steep headwall about 40' left of the correct corner for Mary's second pitch. It was quite hard but fun. Awkward start to get into crack system, then good buckets to place gear and then a couple hard finger/hand jams through the steep short crack above. Anyone know what this is? I would say hard 9 - 10b. I'm not good at judging this type of climbing as I am just no good at it...