Paul leading up Unknown. The Slash (5.8) is to th...
Description
The crux to Unknown is getting off the ground on very thin hands and feet and continues thin getting up to and past the second bolt. The first good hold is about level with third bolt. From here on up the climbing eases but is still great face climbing.
Location
Unknown is on the Grouse Slab East Face which is found a tier up off the ground about 150 yards right of Jellyroll Arch and Insidious Crack. East Face is quite easy to spot as the left side has a smooth face with a bulgy overhang about 25' up. East Face is split by an obvious right slanting wide crack called The Slash. Unknown climbs the thin face just right of the The Slash.
Protection
4 bolts protect this climb adequately. A little runout to the anchors but the difficulty eases quite a bit. You could veer left to easier ground of The Slash if you need to. Double older bolt-like anchors (not sure what these types are called) can be used to rappel.
I don't know if the name of this climb is unknown or if the climbs name is Unknown. If anyone can give more info, I will gladly update this posting. Yesterday's conditions were very tough for a climb like this, 90 degrees and full sun. The rock was VERY hot and the rubber on my boots seemed to be melting off the holds. Anyone want to comment on the rating of this climb? I would imagine the climb would climb easier in better cooler conditions? It felt like hard 10 and certainly seemed harder than the opening moves of Pebble in the Sky. I rated it 10b here mainly because I actually made it (after a couple tries getting off the ground) in the conditions.